Saturday market in Sarlat-la-Canéda

Local markets to fine dining - experiencing the delicacies of the Dordogne

Awash with a golden glow, the hilly countryside of the Dordogne is majestic in the autumn months. But it was the food that left the deepest memories from our visit. After several days of sampling the best of the region – from high-end tasting menus to local market grub – here are the highlights of our culinary exploration of the Dordogne.

The bustling Saturday market in Sarlat-la-Canéda

Bread in the market of Sarlat-la-Canéda

As a refuge for the religious fleeing persecution, Sarlat was settled in an unassuming position in a dell around 5 kilometres from the Dordogne River. With history visible on worn facades and ancient squares, it is an intriguing town with an independent streak born from its chequered past.

But it’s the Saturday market that transforms the entire village into an artisanal commercial hub. Up early on a crisp October morning, the yellow and orange leaves blowing through the village streets were a signpost for the produce were about to find. Stalls were packed high with pumpkins, squash, parsnips, cured meats, a staggering array of cheeses and plenty of wine to wash it all down with. The highlight was the regions star ingredient – mushrooms.

Blessed with excellent produce and enterprising locals, Sarlat has a reputation for markets. Saturday is the full market, while Wednesday is dedicated to food. The covered market in the Sainte Marie church is open daily (except Thursday) and the truffle market takes place from December to February. The Christmas market is considered one of the best in France.

Creative vegetarian cooking at Le 1862

After a day exploring the ancient rock formations hidden in the nearby mountains, we made our way to Hotel Les Glycines to dine at Restaurant Le 1862. Tucked into a scenic spot in the Vézère Valley, the staff prepared an innovative vegetarian tasting menu. The on-site garden provided the vegetables and aromatic herbs, while the kitchen used a deft hand to exploit the versatility of mushrooms to craft a memorable meal.

A trio of mushrooms with a depth of flavour often missing in meat-free dishes blended creamy luxury with spicy accents and an ingenious beetroot jelly. The earthy flavours of the Dordogne were present in a colourful take on a classic risotto, and a marshmallow dessert presented on a bed of pine needles embodied the rural charm and autumnal tones of the region.

The local Sunday Market at charming Issigeac

Sunday Market at Issigeac

Restaurant Le 1862 is fancy food in refined surroundings and the Saturday market in Sarlat is a popular stop on the tourist trail, but the Sunday Market at Issigeac was a sensory overload where we found local farmers selling their fresh produce to discerning locals who know where to get the good stuff.

In this most beautiful of villages, medieval streets curve towards a central square where stalls packed high with fresh seasonal produce enticed local cooks to form orderly queues; patiently waiting in line for the best ingredients. We wandered past stalls of fat, rotund parsnips still covered in dirt; trays of mushrooms in multiple varieties; freshly baked bread and a mind-boggling selection of cheeses.

The Sunday Market at Issigeac is one of the best encounters of food in the Dordogne, and the perfect place to pick up a tasty morsel to accompany the region’s most renowned wines.

The views and wine of Monbazillac

Monbazillac

Not far from Issigeac and spread across the slopes of a hilltop just above the Dordogne River, the vineyards of Monbazillac are regularly shrouded in a light morning mist. As the sun burns through in the afternoon, the location creates the perfect conditions for nobel rot; a beneficial fungus that partially raisins the grapes, producing the delicate sweetness that is synonymous with Monbazillac wines.

With mechanical harvesting banned since 1993, the Semillon, muscadelle and sauvignon grapes used in Monbazillac wines are all handpicked. This passion for traditional methods has created some of the finest sweet wines in the world.

A tour of the sweeping vineyards and the hilltop cháteau is a walk through the history of wine production in the area. The in-house museum has a collection of equipment from a bygone era, and an atmospheric storeroom contains 700 dusty bottles from early vintages. But the highlight, is the wine itself. Deliciously sweet, yet versatile, we didn’t need much convincing to leave with a few bottles home.

Sarlat-La-Canéda 

Sarlat-La-Canéda

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Passirac picnic area

On the D 731, the road between Brossac and Barbezieux, you will have the possibility to eat along the road. This small equipped area will offer you all the necessary comfort to regain your strength.
There are two shaded tables on the site, as well as litter bins.

When you're getting ready to leave, don't forget to pay a visit to Passirac church... This monument is a veritable treasure trove of Romanesque art!

Carved capitals are scattered here and there inside the church, and a 20th-century processional banner adorns one of its walls.

D731 16480 Passirac
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- Infiniment Charentes -
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MObiVE electric car charging station

This MObiVE charging point is freely available in the Salle des Fêtes car park. It offers four charging points to its users. Once parked, you can visit the Church of Notre-Dame de Brossac.
Essential shops can also be found on site: butcher's, food, tobacconist's, baker's, dry cleaner's, hairdresser's, restaurant, car garage, craftsmen, etc.

Payment can be made via the free MObiVE application or via the EDF Group PayNow portal. As a subscriber, the user of the MObiVE application benefits from a preferential rate. They can also access the number of spaces in real time.

The sockets are of the types : T2 and Domestic.

Place des Marronniers - Parking de la Salle des fêtes 16480 Brossac
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- Infiniment Charentes -
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Brossac Town Hall

A village where life is good.

If you like to live in the countryside, if you like walks in the middle of the woods, if you like to stroll, breathe, take your time, if you are in harmony with nature, then, do not hesitate, come to Brossac.

Rue Charles Rougier 16480 Brossac
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- Infiniment Charentes -
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SPAR

The Spar de Brossac welcomes you to the town centre. You'll find a grocery shop, tobacconist's, national press and fdj.

18 Rue Charles Rougier 16480 Brossac
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- Infiniment Charentes -
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Tourist information center of Brossac

Located in the heart of the village hall, this Tourist Information Point will provide you with easy access to documentation. You will be able to be guided and advised on the wonders to discover in our beautiful region.
Among the sights to visit nearby is the church of Notre-Dame de Brossac. This 12th century Romanesque building was attacked several times during the Hundred Years War. It was partially destroyed, rebuilt and then fortified in the 15th century. A true witness to the history of the village, this monument offers a breathtaking view of the heights of Brossac.



Ten minutes away by car, you will find the famous quarries of Guizengeard and their amazing turquoise waters. This habitat, shaped by man, gathers a great diversity of protected species, as well as walking paths ...

Rue Charles Rougier 16480 Brossac
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- Infiniment Charentes -
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Brossac village

Come and discover the village of Brossac ! A charming little village, nestled on a hill, whose origins date back to antiquity. This village of 500 inhabitants shelters the vestiges of a villa and a Gallo-Roman aqueduct.
Their presence results from an ancient Roman road, passing nearby, linking Saintes to Périgueux. Built in the 2nd century BC, these ruins have been classified as Historical Monuments since 1875.



Among the other listed monuments to visit, you will find the church Notre-Dame de Brossac. This 12th century Romanesque building was attacked several times during the Hundred Years War. It was partially destroyed, rebuilt and then fortified in the 15th century. True witness of the history of the village, this monument offers a breathtaking view on the heights of Brossac. A bewitching panorama, which is worth the detour.



Ten minutes away by car, you will find the quarries of Guizengeard and their amazing turquoise waters. This habitat, shaped by man, gathers a great diversity of protected species, as well as walking paths... You may even spot the colorful European Bee-eater, the emblem of the place.



If you are looking for ideas for nature outings or family activities, the Vallier pond is for you. This watering place offers several activities on the spot: playgrounds for children, bike rental, fishing, swimming, picnic area, etc. The perfect place to come and recharge your batteries and enjoy the benefits of Mother Nature.

16480 Brossac
- Infiniment Charentes -
- Infiniment Charentes -