Saturday market in Sarlat-la-Canéda

Local markets to fine dining - experiencing the delicacies of the Dordogne

Awash with a golden glow, the hilly countryside of the Dordogne is majestic in the autumn months. But it was the food that left the deepest memories from our visit. After several days of sampling the best of the region – from high-end tasting menus to local market grub – here are the highlights of our culinary exploration of the Dordogne.

The bustling Saturday market in Sarlat-la-Canéda

Bread in the market of Sarlat-la-Canéda

As a refuge for the religious fleeing persecution, Sarlat was settled in an unassuming position in a dell around 5 kilometres from the Dordogne River. With history visible on worn facades and ancient squares, it is an intriguing town with an independent streak born from its chequered past.

But it’s the Saturday market that transforms the entire village into an artisanal commercial hub. Up early on a crisp October morning, the yellow and orange leaves blowing through the village streets were a signpost for the produce were about to find. Stalls were packed high with pumpkins, squash, parsnips, cured meats, a staggering array of cheeses and plenty of wine to wash it all down with. The highlight was the regions star ingredient – mushrooms.

Blessed with excellent produce and enterprising locals, Sarlat has a reputation for markets. Saturday is the full market, while Wednesday is dedicated to food. The covered market in the Sainte Marie church is open daily (except Thursday) and the truffle market takes place from December to February. The Christmas market is considered one of the best in France.

Creative vegetarian cooking at Le 1862

After a day exploring the ancient rock formations hidden in the nearby mountains, we made our way to Hotel Les Glycines to dine at Restaurant Le 1862. Tucked into a scenic spot in the Vézère Valley, the staff prepared an innovative vegetarian tasting menu. The on-site garden provided the vegetables and aromatic herbs, while the kitchen used a deft hand to exploit the versatility of mushrooms to craft a memorable meal.

A trio of mushrooms with a depth of flavour often missing in meat-free dishes blended creamy luxury with spicy accents and an ingenious beetroot jelly. The earthy flavours of the Dordogne were present in a colourful take on a classic risotto, and a marshmallow dessert presented on a bed of pine needles embodied the rural charm and autumnal tones of the region.

The local Sunday Market at charming Issigeac

Sunday Market at Issigeac

Restaurant Le 1862 is fancy food in refined surroundings and the Saturday market in Sarlat is a popular stop on the tourist trail, but the Sunday Market at Issigeac was a sensory overload where we found local farmers selling their fresh produce to discerning locals who know where to get the good stuff.

In this most beautiful of villages, medieval streets curve towards a central square where stalls packed high with fresh seasonal produce enticed local cooks to form orderly queues; patiently waiting in line for the best ingredients. We wandered past stalls of fat, rotund parsnips still covered in dirt; trays of mushrooms in multiple varieties; freshly baked bread and a mind-boggling selection of cheeses.

The Sunday Market at Issigeac is one of the best encounters of food in the Dordogne, and the perfect place to pick up a tasty morsel to accompany the region’s most renowned wines.

The views and wine of Monbazillac

Monbazillac

Not far from Issigeac and spread across the slopes of a hilltop just above the Dordogne River, the vineyards of Monbazillac are regularly shrouded in a light morning mist. As the sun burns through in the afternoon, the location creates the perfect conditions for nobel rot; a beneficial fungus that partially raisins the grapes, producing the delicate sweetness that is synonymous with Monbazillac wines.

With mechanical harvesting banned since 1993, the Semillon, muscadelle and sauvignon grapes used in Monbazillac wines are all handpicked. This passion for traditional methods has created some of the finest sweet wines in the world.

A tour of the sweeping vineyards and the hilltop cháteau is a walk through the history of wine production in the area. The in-house museum has a collection of equipment from a bygone era, and an atmospheric storeroom contains 700 dusty bottles from early vintages. But the highlight, is the wine itself. Deliciously sweet, yet versatile, we didn’t need much convincing to leave with a few bottles home.

Sarlat-La-Canéda 

Sarlat-La-Canéda

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Pizzeria L'Origan

Horaires d'ouverture:
Lundi au Jeudi de 13h30 à 21h
Vendredi de 13h30 à 22h
Samedi de 8h à 1h du matin
Dimanche fermé

15 rue Coudamy 87500 SAINT YRIEIX LA PERCHE
- Comité Régional du Tourisme de Nouvelle-Aquitaine -
- Comité Régional du Tourisme de Nouvelle-Aquitaine -
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Le Vert Galant

Snack bar

4 rue des Claux 19230 SEGUR LE CHATEAU
- Comité Régional du Tourisme de Nouvelle-Aquitaine -
- Comité Régional du Tourisme de Nouvelle-Aquitaine -
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Restaurant Fleur d'Asie

Horaire d'ouverture
Lundi fermé
Du Mardi au Dimanche de 12h à 19h

25 avenue Marceau 87500 SAINT YRIEIX LA PERCHE
- Comité Régional du Tourisme de Nouvelle-Aquitaine -
- Comité Régional du Tourisme de Nouvelle-Aquitaine -
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Cabane du feuillardier

Traditional strip hut.
A profession practiced in Charente, Limousin and in the North of the Dordogne, the strip maker (or cerclier) made, among other things, circles in chestnut slats to surround the barrels.

Located next to the old Grandmontain priory of Rozet and its restored church, near the arboretum and a hiking trail.

Prieuré de Rauzet 6 route de Rozet 16320 Combiers
- Infiniment Charentes -
- Infiniment Charentes -
Circuit picture

Le chemin de Combiers

The Combiers path, which starts at the village hall, is 11 km long. Along the path, you will see the town hall, the church and the castles of Lasfond and La Rochebeaucourt.

11 km
2h 45m
Easy
Mairie de Combiers Le bourg 16320 Combiers
- Infiniment Charentes -
- Infiniment Charentes -
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Combiers picnic area

Straddling the Dordogne and the Charente, the commune of Combiers invites you to lunch at its picnic area, located near the multi-purpose hall. There, a shaded table awaits you, to enjoy a convivial moment with your family.
The site is easily accessible and a parking area has been provided for your vehicle. When you leave, you can leave your rubbish in the bins provided for this purpose.

Place de la salle polyvalente 6 rue de la Nizonne 16320 Combiers
- Infiniment Charentes -
- Infiniment Charentes -